”Itchy Feet..get ready for a wild vacation”..Economic Times does a short story on The Wanderers in their special 2012 Edition “Firms that make fun”
Read the full article here - http://epaper.timesofindia.com/Default/Scripting/ArticleWin.asp?From=Archive&Source=Page&Skin=ETNEW&BaseHref=ETM%2F2011%2F12%2F30&PageLabel=46&ForceGif=true&EntityId=Ar04500&ViewMode=HTML
Exploring Yunnan..the gem of China
Text by Alifiya Calcuttawala
Part 1: Kunming and Dali
19 Oct: I hate late night flights. Gives me the proverbial red-eye. Specially a 2:40 am departure from Kolkata. The China Eastern flight lands softly at 7:30am into Kunming- the spring city. It’s drizzling, though this time of the year it’s not supposed to. Blame that on my travel-jinx..
It’s my first trip to China. I am excited. My itinerary includes Kunming, Dali and Lijiang. At the airport the sheer size of the population amazes me. And I am an Indian! Have to wait for over an hour to clear immigration.
The journey begins: Kunming - Green Park lake.
On another day, I would have walked along the small lake, and then chill at the lakeside cafes. But not today as its drizzling, so I head towards the Yauntong Temple- the largest Buddhist complex in Kunming and a rare and superb example of the Tang Dynasty design. It’s refreshing to wander amid a 1200 year old temple complex that still draws a fair number of pilgrims. It has a large square pond and in the centre there’s a Ming dynasty octagonal pavilion. Watch out for pickpockets. I head to the hotel as I am tired and in need of sleep. I turn in early.
Note for golfers: Kunming has Asia’s largest golf course. 36 holes and it takes just about 40 mins to reach there from the city. Also 30 mins from the city – is a team building site which corporates can hire for half a day or full day. The site has got a great obstacle course.
20 Oct: Had a comfortable sleep, a large breakfast and left the hotel by 11 am. First stop – the stone Forest. This place, 90 kms from Kunming, is a 2.7 billion year old forest made up of stone. It took under an hour to reach there. I am overwhelmed by the sheer size of these rocks which once formed the the sea bed that had been pushed when the tectonic plates ran against each other. Hence these rocks are made up of limestone and one can see fossils of corals, fish etc. The largest of these rocks reach up to the height of 80 meters. Due to oceanic currents and later due to wind and rain – the erosion of the rock surfaces have made them look like sharp swords and at some places they resemble different kind of animal shapes. This forest covers 350 sq kms (entrance to all national heritage sites across china is quite steep RMB 175 per person). I jostle through the crowds. Yes, there’s no respite from that in this forest either! One disturbing sight..I don’t see a single bird seen in the stone forest in spite of abundant greenery. 4 hours later we head back to Kunming.
Next stop.. the bird and flower market. Now don’t get taken by the name – this market has everything under the sun – as in local produce / local products/ local jewellery (did not see any birds though). I am amazed at some of the other things the Chinese produce “en-mass” ..many coffees, many cookies, many herbs, many jades, many flowers (real and artificial) many candies, many meats, many teas. Just many, many. Ah, tea. Now this is worth a mention – there is one variety of tea which does not have much value so what they do is they compress it and make it hard and they make picture frames out of it as in a frame with landscape made entirely of tea , pots, pans, books etc. so that you can gift it and keep it since it now looks beautiful. These tea “manifestations” if I may call them that, after couple of years of aging become valuable – after 30 to 40 years they are worth 1000s of RMB’s and then becomes a collector’s item. Innovation..Chinese style.
Well after this amazing experience in this market, I am escorted to a local massage joint. This massage parlour is frequented only by locals - absolutely basic, nothing fancy at all small 200 sq feet area with 5 beds . So, whats so special about this place..well its is operated by blind people who are supposed to have very keen sense of touch hence their fingers exude the right pressure. I take a full body massage. I am totally dressed and they cover me with a towel. The area that is massaged is further covered on top with another towel. Each muscle of mine is pulled apart till I groan in pain. The only place which feels relaxing are my legs (long hours of standing and walking for 2 days).
I pick up my bags and head for the railway station. I am headed for Dali up North. The station at first glance looks like an airport (Kolkata APT to be specific). The train number is mentioned on the display screens. 30 mins before departure time the steel gates open and all the the people in the platform queue up, get the tickets punched and go down one level below. Soon there’s not a single soul on the platform. The 3 tier compartment is nice and clean though there’s no air conditioning. I remember I am in the “spring city.” At 11:39 the train quietly pulls away from the platform and I climb up to the upper berth (I have paid less for the upper berth , than compared to middle and the lower which is the more expensive berth). Soon the cacophony of my Chinese fellow passengers engulfs my senses and the decibel is akin to a Durga Puja pandal on Mahastami evening. I risk a conversation by asking a co-passenger what time the train would reach Dali. I am shown the window! So much for a friendly banter. Suddenly all the lights go out – its totally dark and the voices are instantly lowered. Its kind of eerie trying to lull myself to sleep in a compartment surrounded by the sounds of a strange language.
21 Oct: 6:45 am .. I wake up to a surround sound of constant Chinese chatter. I climb down from my perch and sit near the window. I am taken back by the landscape. Mountains with floating clouds near the peaks have replaced tall concrete buildings, congested roads with traffic have been replaced by green farms- that look quite surreal in the morning mist. It’s drizzling outside. The train pulls in at Dali station. I wheel the luggage out and am pleased to see Grace standing with a placard with my name emblazoned on it. I am escorted to the car where, to my surprise, the driver is a lady. All gelled curls, black jacket over green tight fitting sweater and stilettos to complete the look.
Dali is located on a fertile plateau between the Cangshan Range to the west and Erhai lake to the east. These are its main tourist attraction. It has traditionally been settled by the Bai and Yi minorities. The Erhai lake is 250 sqkm in area and its approx 30kms long. The native of Dali are the Bai people.. very colourful and everything that they wear or do have some significance attached to it. For eg, the lady wears a colourful head gear the top of which has white fur, depicting snow on the mountains followed by a white layer, depicting the moon and then embroidered flowers highlighting the ever beautiful city of Dali. Covered with flowers the headgear on the left side has a scarf. If its long, the girl is unmarried and if short then she is married. It’s forbidden for a man to touch the white scarf of the girl and if you do, you have shown the intention to marry! Dali is a beautiful town – on one side the mountains and on the other side, the vast lake. As luck would have it – it was drizzling!
The station is a 30 min drive to the hotel which is 1.5kms away from the fortified town of Old Dali. After a quick shower, I am met at the lobby by Grace, who is eager to show me her beautiful city. We head straight to a place called Xihou some 25 kms away from Dali. The journey is beautiful, and it takes us 40 mins to reach there. We pass rice fields against the back drop of the majestic green mountains which are laced with clouds. Xihou, an old town is part of Dali and is famous for its architecture. As we walk across the narrow streets what strikes me is the cleanliness of the streets. Not a single plastic packet piece of paper or rubbish is to be seen anywhere. The old houses are over 100 years old. We walk into one of the houses which have a well. Since all these old houses were made up of wood hence it was very important to have a well inside the house to douse the fire. These houses had lovely frescos (which over time were not maintained) and marble walls (Dali is known for its marble and Batik craft). Later we visit an embroidery school. I am astounded by the kind of exquisite embroidery on display. It is so fine that I think it is a printed fabric although it is embroidered with silk threads. Inside the house, there is a gallery showcasing more than 100 designs right from landscapes, animals, portraits each better than the other. I am stunned by the designs I see. We head out from this place towards the lake. At the pier, we hire a fishing boat and go boating on the Erhai lake. This vast lake is right off a fairy tale book with mountains lurking in the distance. A heavenly place.
The cormorants and the fisherman..
While I was inhaling the fresh air and admiring the beauty I hear the shrill sound of a man. He is sitting on another boat and all along the periphery of the boat are these long necked cormorants. One by one he unties the birds, catches them by the neck and throws them into the water. Within a couple of minutes the birds catch a huge fish about 2 feet long! 3 of the birds hold the fish in their beaks. The fisherman casts a huge net into the lake and scoops out the 3 birds and the fish and hauls them in. He pulls the fish from the birds and tosses it to one corner of the boat and throws the birds back into the water again. After catching 2 such fish, the man throws small pieces of fish inside the water for his “hunting” birds as a reward. All the birds cram together to get a piece. My Kodak moment arrives when I get 2 of these birds to perch on my arms and smile..
My tea story..
I walk away from the lake and go to see a 3-course tea show. Its a cultural programme by the Bai people, which is demonstrated as a dance. There is a commentary in Chinese, but of course my guide explains it to me in English. The tea depicts the life of a man. When the 1st course of tea is served – it taste bitter ( this denotes the early years as a child when they have to work hard and study); when the 2nd course is served – it tastes sweet with yak butter and honey ( denotes the life of a man when he gets married and has a job than is happy); the 3rd course of tea tastes quite strong but sweet (and denotes the wisdom the men have gained after passing the years of their youth – and now they are enjoying their old age).
We proceed to Dali’s old town. First halt, the 3 pagodas and the temple complex - the biggest pagoda is almost 1000yrs old and quite a relic (no one is allowed to go inside the pagoda)- you can roam around in the gardens and it takes approx 3-4 hours to go through the entire complex. One can hire a golf cart, too.
Dali’s old town is beautiful. A square area with the foreigner’s street being the main attraction with bars / cafes and lots of shops filled with silver/ marble/ batik etc. It is quite a surreal experience walking through the old town – impeccably clean, beautiful in its own way, weeping willows on the sides and water channels flowing through the streets, which have beautiful flowers adorning the pavements. The old city has the 4 famous gates – north, south, east & west. I pass by shops and carts selling fruits (amazingly different in size and fresh – oranges the size of grapes and pomegranates the size of a watermelon!), and meat products (beef, yak cheese, yak meat, pickles, dumplings etc). I finally reached the west gate which is a huge structure, a typical Chinese style architecture with a curved roof with pointed ends which depicts a pigeon sitting, denoting peace. Hence all houses have this structure and along with it they have a cat – to ward off evil spirits). I climb up the first level – and the sight I see takes my breath away. The old city with their alleys down below.. on one side the beautiful lake shimmering in the setting rays of the sun – giving a golden glow and on the other I see the looming mountains – with the clouds still there half way. It is quite an overwhelming scene and I sit there for a while soaking in the flavor of Dali.
I return to my hotel. Tomorrow I will be heading for Lijiang. But tonight I would bask in the beauty of Dali…
Bored of doing the same thing every New Year’s eve? Then beat the winter blues this December and ring in the New Year in Dublin, the capital city of Ireland, with a dazzling display of Irish music and dance. New Year’s Eve may be the most magical night of the year, and Dublin has truly embraced the festive spirit this year by bringing us the much talked about Dublin’s New Year’s Eve Festival.
Christened as The Gathering 2013, this festival is when Ireland opens its arms to hundreds of thousands of friends and family from all over the world, calling them home to gatherings and festivals throughout the country.
Introduced in 2011, NYE in Dublin is celebrated as grandly as it is in New York’s Times Square or near Sydney’s Opera House. There’s something for everyone with both day and night events. A parade, concert, lighting show and, the explosive icing on the cake, a firework show.
The Gathering 2013 promises to be fun with five festival zones, fireworks, street entertainment, an outdoor brunch and a stunning torch lit procession. The NYE Dublin festival will open with a participative torch lit procession and there will be a magnificent fireworks display over St. Stephen’s Green in the centre of Dublin.
The highlight of the festival is the ticketed New Year’s Eve Countdown Concert taking place in College Green. Cutting-edge 3D projection will form the backdrop to a spectacular NYE Countdown Concert at College Green. This concert promises to be awesome and will feature some of the biggest names in Irish music take to the stage to help herald the beginning of a new year. The festival will close with a Ceili Mor and The Big Brunch on New Year’s Day
Christmas in Europe is a time for elaborate pastries straight out of a medieval cookbook, for lyrical midnight masses in Gothic churches, and for the upholding of quirky local traditions. However else Europeans celebrate the Yuletide season, Christmas still centers around an Advent market that has filled the square before the cathedral each December for hundreds upon hundreds of years.
These markets are where the romance of the holiday comes alive in grand tradition – smells of gingerbread and roasting sausages waft through the cold air, handmade ornaments adorn ancient fir trees, master glassblowers and other artisans ply their crafts in wooden stalls, shoppers bustle past Gothic church facades and half-timbered houses, pausing to sip their heavily spiced and mulled “glow wine”—the piping-hot beverage of choice at any self-respecting Teutonic Christmas market.
The whole experience is enhanced by live music, dancing and Nativity plays. It’s an old-world Christmas of heartfelt carolling and wooden toys, where every gift is crafted by hand. For a few precious frost-nipped weeks, these museum-piece cities of Old World Europe flicker back to the Middle Ages, to the living, breathing yesteryear of a bustling outdoor marketplace.
Christmas markets originated in Germany – still the spiritual home of the “Christkindlmarkt”. But their ever-increasing popularity has led to several countries introducing their own versions, meaning you have a large choice of slightly different markets.
The Wanderers has put together something special just for you so that you too can experience this magic that is Christmas Market at some of the best places in Europe.
Market Dates
Many markets start on the Friday before Advent, which is four Sundays before Christmas Eve; most end on December 24, especially in Germanic countries, where Christmas Eve is set aside for trimming the tree at home. Others keep celebrating until Epiphany on January 6.
Vienna
“Old Viennese” Christkindlmarkt
Traditional Christmas Fair at the Freyung, one of the most beautiful places in the heart of Vienna. Here you can admire exquisite craftwork, special treats typical for Christmas time in Vienna and a varied cultural programme. In the late afternoon musicians will contribute to the Christmas atmosphere and visitors can enjoy this charming, lit-up square, surrounded by some of the most impressive Viennese palais, the Austrian fountain and the Church of the Scots.
Viennese Christmas Market In Front Of the City Hall
This market really is an unforgettable highlight for visitors eager to get into the Christmas spirit. The unique backdrop of the Burgtheater and the Vienna City Hall gives this Christmas market a charm all of its own. The delicious aroma of punch, traditional gingerbread, roasted almonds and honey puts everyone in the Christmas mood. Children can get lost in arts and craft works, preparing Christmas presents for grandma, grandpa, mom or dad!
Art and Atmosphere “Am Hof”
This is a small but really fine Christmas market, where artwork can be purchased which is presented and produced by Austrian artists. The square itself goes back to Roman times, and in the Middle Ages the Babenberger rulers built their residence here, which made this square the cultural centre of the city.
Spittelberg Christmas Market
Spittelberg is a beautiful area in the 7th district with small cobbled lanes, which is where the market takes place. Here you will find an almost medieval atmosphere. On the 6th of December St. Nikolaus comes to visit and of course there is also somewhere where children can prepare Christmas gifts.
Christmas Market In Front Of Charles Church
Here you find a little Christmas market with beautiful craftwork by Viennese artists. Unlike the larger markets in front of the City Hall or Schönbrunn Palace, this attractive market has a more intimate atmosphere.
Christmas Market Wilhelminenberg
Enjoy this Christmas market with a sensational view over Vienna! For ice-skating fans there is also an ice rink, with the whole of the city at your feet.
Christmas Market at Schönbrunn Palace
Enjoy the Christmas spirit at one of the most famous landmarks here in Vienna. Approx. 60 exhibitors present handicrafts and original gifts, such as hand-made Christmas decorations, mangers or objects made of natural materials which can of course also be purchased. The fragrance of fresh Christmas bakery, biscuits and hot punch also contributes to the atmosphere and feeling of Christmas.
Christmas carols, gospels and spirituals are performed by choirs, brass bands and music groups on the stage in front of the Christmas tree. On the weekends, an interactive Christmas game for children takes place at the Parade Court. In “Poldis Christmas Workshop” children can make handicrafts and small presents. In the Imperial Bakery of the Café Residenz Schönbrunn, kids can also cut out and bake Christmas biscuits and decorate gingerbread with stars, bells and Christmas figures.
Christmas Village Belvedere Palace
The popular Christmas village with its traditional handicrafts is set against the glorious backdrop of the world-famous baroque Belvedere Palace, one of Vienna’s most beautiful and significant sights. More than 40 festively decorated market stalls offer traditional handcrafted goods, elaborate Christmas decorations and special culinary delights.
Christmas Village Maria Theresia Square
Impressive Viennese buildings and traditional Christmas customs! The Christmas village, which is situated in the heart of Vienna between the 2 impressive museums on Vienna’s majestic Ringstrasse, will open its stalls for the 4th time this year. The Christmas atmosphere is provided by festively decorated market stalls as well as an array of culinary delights.
Munich
Munich Christkindlmarkt
The most famous Christmas market is the Christkindl market. This is traditional Christmas at its very best and you’ll find all manner of stalls selling crafts, sweets, cakes, food, mulled wine and other delights. In recent years there hasn’t been much snow at market time but the atmosphere is always very special.
Kripperlmarkt
The equally popular Kripperlmarkt, one of the largest in Germany to specialise in cribs and other nativity accessories, is a short walk away on nearby Rindermarkt. The historical event has been part of Munich‘s traditional Christmas Markets since the middle of the 18th century. The Kripperlmarkt has all you need to create an authentic manger. Each lovingly chosen and carefully packed item is a reminder of childhood, when the manger under the Christmas tree symbolized a world of mystery and wonder. Christmas mangers, cribs and nativity scenes have long been a tradition in Munich.
Tollwood Market
More than a Christmas Market and totally different is the Tollwood Christmas Market, Munich´s fantastic ethnic festival. On the Theresienwiese you will find a spectacle of tents offering an exciting mix of international musicians and drama groups, performances, live music, art and culture as well as popular Christmas Market ideas with handicrafts and cuisine from all over the world.
Munich Christmas Market Pass
In addition to culinary delights and souvenirs from the many stalls of the Christmas market, the pass includes free entry to the tower of the City Hall and to the “Typically Munich” exhibition in the Munich City Museum.
The pass includes a cup of Original Munich Christmas Market mulled wine, a bratwurst (sausage) sandwich, a handmade wooden Christmas star from the crib market, free admission to the Munich City Museum and the permanent “Typically Munich” exhibition about the history of the city, an Original Munich Christmas Market cloth bag and free entry to the tower of the City Hall, which offers great views over Munich and the Christmas market.
Berlin
Christmas Market on Alexanderplatz
The Christmas Market on Alexanderplatz has taken place there for 60 years and is one of the most popular in the whole of Berlin. In addition to browsing through the stalls, which sell all kinds of handmade goods, visitors can also have fun on the amusements, for example a ride on the largest transportable giant wheel.
Market between Staatsoper and Opernapalais
A nostalgic Christmas market takes place between the Staatsoper and Opernpalais. Craftspeople, confectioners, almond and chestnut roasters, and candle and lantern makers offer their wares in more
than 200 wooden booths. There is also a crib with real animals and a wooden horse carousel.
The much loved Christmas market on the boulevard Unter den Linden twinkles and shines. The illuminated Palais and the Staatsoper Berlin provide the nostalgic Christmas market with an appropriate backdrop. A coachman also invites you to take a pre-Christmas carriage drive through Berlin’s “old centre”. You can enjoy the historical atmosphere at the market and on a carriage ride against a unique backdrop.
Spandau Christmas Market
Berlin’s largest Christmas market takes place in the Spandau Old Town, casting a spell on the historic backdrop with pre-Christmas lustre. At the Spandau Christmas Market an unmistakeable Advent
landscape comes into being here every day during Advent. Highlights are a Christmas crib with living animals on Reformationsplatz, the St. Nikolai Christmas Garden and crafts and design at the historic crafts market on Reformationsplatz. There is a special range for children and families around the St. Nikolai church.
Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market
An atmospheric backdrop guarantees a wonderful experience in one of the most beautiful squares in the city. Insights into old handicrafts such as flax embroidery are offered. Wood carvers and stonemasons present their work. Jugglers, acrobats, fire artists, dance groups, choirs, Berlin classical, jazz and Gospel ensembles, as well as internationally famous artists, also ensure a varied show programme. Alongside the exhibitors’ wares, culinary temptations from top cooks also promise “Christmas spirit”.
Charlottenburg Castle Christmas Market
Since 2007 the Charlottenburg Castle Christmas Market in Berlin is host to one of the most famous Christmas Markets in the German capital. For 35 days the castle and its park are immersed in a special romantic light and a unique ensemble is created with approximately 150 vendors from all over Germany as well as abroad. Alongside attractive temporary and permanent exhibitions inside the castle, the Christmas market presents carefully selected arts and crafts, ancient handicrafts, and well chosen gastronomy inside of festively decorated cabins and exclusive glass pagodas.
When people travel, the biggest topics and highlights are often unique, funny or offbeat experiences that make great dinner party conversations. That’s the best thing about travel for most of us – experiencing something that’s unusual when compared to ones own culture. So here are seven unique travel ideas from around the world – ranging from activities to eating and other just plain crazy stuff – and all of which will have your friends fascinated.
The Shoe Fence, Waihola / IMAGE: Will Bryson
You’ll find the shoe fence on New Zealand’s South Island, on the drive south from Dunedin towards Invercargill, near a place called Waihola. The fence has been steadily collecting shoes over the years, with many travellers adding their worn out pairs. And having accumulated so many pairs over the years, the Shoe Fence is now an enormous collection that would easily put Imelda Marcos’ stash to shame. It’s not uncommon to find bizarre fence collections like this all over New Zealand – there’s even a bra fence in a town called Middlemarch!
Kopi Luwak packaging
Kopi Luwak from Bali is the world’s most expensive coffee – with prices often reaching the $500 per kilogram mark. But the main reason Kopi Luwak is famous isn’t its price, it’s because it’s made of cat poo (well, the Civet isn’t actually a cat – but they’re referred to by locals as ‘cats’ or ‘weasels’). The coffee beans are eaten and digested by the Asian Palm Civet, then they’re extracted from the Civet poo, washed thoroughly, lightly roasted – and made into coffee, or Kopi Luwak (Kopi = coffee, Luwak = the Civet). There are theories as to why the coffee tastes so good; the strongest argument being that the digestive tract of the Civet removes some of the bitter coffee taste, but leaves the beans intact.
La Tomatina, Buñol
La Tomatina has got to rank as one of the world’s most bizarre and downright infantile fiestas on earth. This world-famous summer spectacular sees thirty thousand or so participants try to dispose of the entire EU tomato mountain by way of a massive hour-long food fight. It’s an event especially appealing to repressed northern Europeans, Americans and Japanese, who swarm to the otherwise unremarkable Spanish town of Buñol each year on the last Wednesday of August, accompanied by legions of TV crews and photographers to document the carnage. Hurling 130,000 kilos of over-ripe tomatoes at each other until the streets are ankle-deep in a sea of squelching fruit is a strangely liberating experience. At the very least, it’s the one fiesta where you can truly say that you’ve painted the town red.
Tasmanian Devil
Forget the spinning, raspberry-blowing Looney Tunes stereotype – the Tasmanian devil is a famously elusive character. So if you want to get up close and personal with one on your trip to Tasmania, you’re going to need the skills of Geoff King. You’ll be taken in a small group to King’s remote fishing hut, where he’ll tempt out the devil with road kill staked to the ground. When one appears – and it usually doesn’t take long – you’ll be in the front row for a show few experience, as the Tasmanian devil guzzles down the fresh carcass in front of your eyes. You’ll literally be at dinner with the devil.
Australia Day Cockroach Races
Cockroach Racing is a popular event that takes place every year in Brisbane on Australia Day – the 26th January. The alleged story of how these races started is that two old punters sat in the Story Bridge Hotel bar arguing over which Brisbane suburb had the biggest and fastest cockroaches – so they decided to race them. Nowadays, a jar of cockroaches is placed in the middle of the racing arena and the first cockroach to reach the outer edge of the circle wins. While it may seem silly to race cockroaches, it’s all for a good cause – proceeds from the day go to charity.
Filipino favourite Spam
Spam Jam is a restaurant in Manila, the Philippines, which specialises in Spam recipes. The restaurant, which you’ll find in the Makati City area of Manila, has delights on offer like the Spam burger, Spam and eggs, Spam spaghetti and Spam Caesar Salad. But whilst the menu might sound like something from a Monty Python sketch, Spam is actually part of the staple diet in the Philippines because it’s a relatively inexpensive, readily available and doesn’t spoil quickly.
Article courtesy: roughguides.com
Early Saturday morning, two of us embarked on this journey which was extremely special to both. One was worried about kids, home and was constantly wondering if she had made the right decision. The other was contemplating how the next 8 days would turn out to be given that all she had was a list of places to go to, a few contact numbers and lots of courage – which might vanish at the slightest hint of danger. Nevertheless, both were excited to be on this journey unsure.
Day 1, we put up our bravest faces, bid farewell to folks and entered into the terminal all pepped and energetic at 6AM. In our excitement we do not fill the immigration assuming Nepal is a part of India in all respects. Result – we are sent back to go look for forms, fill them up and wait in the queue again. What followed was feasting on the duty free shops, every single moment being reminded of the trip being a “budget” one and hence no spend on luxury allowed. Within an hour and a half we land at the Tribhuvan International Airport breathing in the pristine air from the land of the Everest.
Haggling with the taxi (ages old maruti’s, with every corner creeking) we settled for INR 300 for Thamel – the tourist hub and the most happening neighborhood in the country. There are innumerable guest houses here that range from INR 200 – INR 2100 a night. We settled in the Sunrise Cottage (INR 500/night). It is a real comfortable, cozy place behind the popular Tibet Guest House. We threw our luggage took out the prints, maps, notes that we had collected over a week, broke our heads for minutes 30 without figuring out where to start exploring the city from and then decided to take a stroll. The vibrant alleys of Thamel are a treat, multi colored woollens, yak wool bags, accessories, trekking gears hanging in the shops are a perfect catalyst. It awakens the tourist in you and makes you want to trek right upto the summit. Dinner at the Roadhouse Cafe was an awesome start to this vacation.
Day 2, woke up after a chilly night and decided to walk upto Swayambhunath. The greatest advantage of staying in Thamel is that the place is the liveliest till the wee hours, is close to bus stands and taxi stations. On our way to Swayambhunath we entered the Vijayshwari temple and boy what a site it was, 3 weddings in the temple complex. Beautiful ladies all dressed in the same shade of red made the dull courtyard brighter. Pandits ranting mantras, kids scurrying across the yard, pigeons feasting on the grains - the temple was bustling with activity. After congratulating the newly weds we continued on our expedition. After having walked some 1.5kms we saw monkeys all around us. This was an indication that we are at the right place as I had read about the abundance of the apes here. Its a steep climb to the Stupa, but the breathtaking view from the top , makes it worth the while. The golden pagodas, vajras and the temple roofs are an architectural genius. Butterlamps, pigeons, monkeys, prayer bells and prayer flags are plenty. Special mention to Cafe De Stupa – they serve fresh cooked food (disclaimer that the food would not be served in less than 20 mins may make you feel bad, but the parathas here will leave you with no regrets) only.We went exploring the place and accidently came across this easier to climb, less steep path that led to the temple. We had a good time laughing at ourselves. Right at the bottom of this is the Buddha Amideva Park, that receives a lot of devotees who go round in circles around the 3 golden statues of Sakyamuni.
Pashupatinath: From the ring road we took the bus to Gaushala(the stop for Pashupatinath). Situated on the banks of the Bagmati river, this is the most revered of the Hindu temples in the country. Lined with stalls selling puja thalis, shivlings, tikas, incense sticks , a walk up the crowded street would lead to the relatively tiny entrance to this huge temple. The golden Nandi(shivas bull) is all that is visible from here. Non Hindus are not allowed to enter and Mondays can be tough to explore the place as there hardly is space to walk. The ghats on the opposite end are an amazing site. the dead river, the yogi caves, the steep steps to the ghats and the usual site of cremation makes this place eerie.
Boudhanath: Walking distance from here is the most famous Stupa. The place is surrounded by monasteries, shops selling Tibetan art, souvenirs, music, roof top cafes. The general direction of traffic is clockwise as thousands of devouts visit the place to perform the ritual walk around the stupa and then wait in a queue to ring the enormous bell. We recommend the desserts and the burger at the Saturday Cafe.
Day 3, we decide to experience the Kathmandu Durbar square – around 700m from Thamel. People sitting on the steps of the temples soaking in the sun, prayers being offered, pigeons being fed, children bunking school and hiding away from their parents are a common site here. This place provides an excellent experience of a day in the life of the citydwellers here.The square has the Kumari grah( the house of the Kumari of Kathmandu), the Bhairab temple, the museum. We strongly recommend the walking tours in the lonely planet guide. Next we went ahead to explore the famous Freakstreet – an Israeli settlement and the old chirpy hub, before Thamel took over. It was quite a disappointment after having stayed in Thamel for 2 days. Next on the list was the Patan square, but apparently there was some protest being held and hence it was closed. it is good to read the daily newspapers to get to know about similar such protests around the town, as they are quite common and the taxis are fairly expensive. 
Dinner at Fu ru Sato (Thamel)- the Japanese joint was heavenly. yasai cha haan (veg fried rice) and chilly tofu left us licking our cutlery.
Day 4, We packed a day bag and set out to explore Patan, Bhaktapur and Nagarkot There are buses from the Ratna park bus station (NPR 30, 30mins) to Patan. The durbar square here is ancient. There is a famous Golden Temple(a Buddhist temple) enroute to the Durbar square. It is a must visit for its courtyard temple architecture.I would like to flaunt my history a little - just to eradicate the seeds of confusion that might have cropped up due to these multiple durbar squares. Well the kingdom had three regions Kantipur(Kathmandu), Patan and Bhaktapur and each has a Durbar of its own. The 2 hour long walking tour in LP is awesome to know about the history, architecture and significance of the various temples here.Club sandwich and tea at the Third World Cafe with a top view of the main temple under the early morning sun in the foggy winters is a perfect start to an eventful day.Next up was the walk to the Lagankhel bus station to board a bus to Bhaktapur(25 NPR, 40mins)
Bhaktapur: We found this to be the most interesting of these squares.Rich Newari cultural legacy sets this apart. Everyday life here is fun to observe. It has a potters square where there are a zillion pots neatly laid out in the sun to dry, wheels spinning and earthen pots being shaped from the clay. It has a Taumoudhi square with a 5 storied temple. The durbar square here has a cluster of palatial buildings, temples and sculptures which are a visual treat. Must notice • The Golden gate to the Taleju temple. This temple is opened to public only for 3 days during Dussehra. It has a 108kg gold deity of Goddess Taleju who is pleased by sacrificing 108 animals. The courtyard overflows with blood when this is done.• The 55 windows palace that has been restored after a devastating earthquake• The Chardham temples – Badrinath, Kedarnath, Dwarka, Rameshwar – it is believed that people who cannot visit these temples in India can visit the miniature replicas in Bhaktapur. • Cafe Nyatapola – a beautiful place to lounge, right in the middle of the square, tables lined in the balcony of the old palatial building provide a great view of the squareWalking around these towns is like time traveling into the past. The sweet dahi (ju ju dhau) is a must eat.
Nagarkot: Next we were on a bus to Nagarkot - the viewpoint to the Kathmandu valley and the Langthang ranges. the 40mins drive through well laid curvaceous roads made us switch gears from appreciating architecture to enjoying the natural beauty that the place abounds in. The Hotel At the End of the Universe is a mesmerizing resort. Excellent hospitality, good food and fairy tale like landscapes would make you want to stay. Strongly recommend to spend a night here.
Day 5, We were determined to witness the phenomena of Bali(sacrificial ceremony to please the Gods) at the Dakshinkali temple. Saturdays, when sacrifices are made, can be a disheartening experience. You may want to keep this for the end of the trip, else the sights of dead animals may haunt you. Generally you see stalls offering puja thalis, incense sticks, flowers outside temples. Here you have all of these plus stalls that sell goats and chickens too. People wait in a queue for hours to slaughter these innocent beings trying to please the Gods and beg for personal favors - how oxymoronic can religious practices be – you sacrifice a life to fulfill your whims and fancies.
There was this tiny little black goat kid, trying to eat flowers out of the baskets of people standing around it. It did not have the slightest idea that these people around it were praying in front of it only to brutally slaughter it the next moment. The kid was held and in one sharp blow was beheaded – just like that! This instance has blotted my memory. It makes me hate Hinduism - where such practices are still considered holy,not that other religions are any better.
No wonder Nepal is the only Hindu country! Bali is quite a common here… huh!
We got back to Thamel – a place that felt like home by now. A Newari thali at Zaika was our pick for dinner.
Kathmandu is a hot pot of religion, culture, heritage and the base for the daredevils who wander in the Himalayas conquering peaks, abseiling in the waterfalls, bungy jumping from gorges to view the peaks upside down. A week, a fortnight, a month …. still is less time to explore this kingdom of yaks and yetis, peaks and valleys, Hinduism and Buddhism..whatever interests you.
For more travelogues from Ritika Gupta, check her blog - http://traveloggers-phototales.com
The Commander jeep hurtled down NH 31A from Gangtok to Teesta Bazar at breakneck speed. Sitting at the back is not a comfortable way of travelling in these hills if you are in a taxi loaded with 13 passengers including the driver and the cleaner! Brief glimpses of the beautiful Teesta River from the gaps between a dozen heads kept me occupied. The constant banter of the 3 young ladies flirting with the driver in Nepali, the local language, was what really worried me. In any case he was perched precariously on the edge of the seat with part of his body hanging out and every time a bend appeared he would lean his full body on the wheel to turn the vehicle. He either fell on the lady next to him – an action that brought peels of laughter from the 3 ladies in front – or he simply disappeared out of the jeep depending on the turn. They found this very amusing. Not me. I was praying.
By the time we reached Teesta Bazar, it was hot and sunny. The altitude not more than 2000ft. On the left, the road turned to Kalimpong, 14 kms away. A quaint hill station famous for its flower nurseries and pleasant weather throughout the year, the place makes for an excellent two-day detour in one’s itinerary. There’s a Tibetan Lama in Kalimpong whose ‘magical’ cures for arthritis and other such diseases are legendary in the area. The Churches and the Colonial buildings in town are worth a visit too.
We took the right bifurcation and crossed the Teesta River as our destination was Darjeeling, still a couple of hours drive away. Soon, the steep climb up Peshoke Road began. First and second gear stuff with sharp twists and turns. The flirting up front continued. Minutes later, we were up on the mountain once again – the Teesta, a small silver streak down below. There was a perceptible change in temperature and it much cooler as we went past a tea garden. The tea pickers, with huge baskets slung on their backs, were unmindful of the vehicles that passed as they went on with their “two buds and a leaf” routine. It was picture postcard scenery all along. Soon, we were enveloped by a thick fog as we crossed a forest of pine trees. The driver halted for lunch at a small village beside the road.
I entered a roadside stall for lunch and surveyed the scene. Three leather jacketed men, with caps worn loosely on their heads, were on the far corner drinking rum and playing cards. The cigarettes hung carelessly on their lips. The old lady who apparently owned the joint served them momos and they exchanged greetings. They seemed to know each other quite well. The pretty girl who manned the busy counter, and looked like the old lady’s daughter, took care of shop front business. It was good business too. Many of the jeeps stop here on their way up or down from Darjeeling before embarking on the steep ascent or descent depending on where they were bound. The passengers alight to walk around a bit or kick around.
I ordered pork momos with soup. It was delicious.
Ghoom came next. It’s the highest railroad station in Asia at 8,000ft. The fog was very thick here and it was drizzling. I was worried about my rucksack tied above the jeep. The ‘cleaner’, a wiry young lad of 12, was cocky to the core. “Not waterproof?” he asked grinning. “I don’t know”, I said. “ You shouldn’t buy cheap Indian stuff,” he said in mock disgust. I made a mental note not to touch his jeep with a bargepole next time.
The jeep was now moving towards Darjeeling. An old familiar smell. The smell of mist floating in the mountains and fumes from passing vehicles. The sight was familiar too – the toy train track running parallel to the road; the landrovers still chugging along quite well; pretty ladies with colourful umbrellas walking daintily around a puddle, the hand lifting the long gown a wee bit.
Then the mist parted for a moment. And through the gap I saw the town of Darjeeling -spread across the hillside. The sun shining magically on the hill, the rays reflecting off the wet tin roofs in a dazzling display of pin point light.
Over the next few days I visited my old haunts in Darjeeling. Stayed at Dekelling on the Mall where Norbu and his wife took good care of me. Strolled down the Mall. Had breakfast at Keventers- hot dog and hot chocolate- the same stuff I had first tasted in 1979, during my first visit to Darjeeling. Bought a jacket and a ‘monkey’ cap from the stalls lined up on the Mall. Glenary’s for pastries, Das Studio for my usual replenishment of film rolls and picture postcards. Sat on the bench at the square watching three generations of people eating, chatting, laughing, reading or simply watching others the way I was.
Early one morning, I walked all the way past the Mall and down the lane past the Windamere and Loretto Convent. A clear bright day following three days of indifferent weather. The sun was up, shining coyly through the leaves of the trees that lined the road. I walked aimlessly down the road soaking in the crisp Himalayan air. The Khangchendzonga range was visible clearly. The forked peak of the third highest peak in the world towered above the rest of the peaks. Cold, distant and silent. I watched fascinated as always at the sight before me. An old ‘sweeper’ who was cleaning the road looked at me and smiled knowingly. It was clear that the magic had worked on him every moment of his life.
Time ticked and caught up with me. I hurried down the road towards the zoo. I didn’t want to be late to see the two snow leopards playing in their cage before they disappeared for their feed.
Copyright 2000, Wanderers Leisure Travels Pvt Ltd, Mumbai.
“ Almost heaven, West Virginia, blue ridged mountains, Shenandoh river..”.
Denver took hold of my senses halfway between Mysore and Ooty, somewhere in the middle of dense jungles of Bandipur. The forest whizzed past. It was around 3 in the afternoon but the canopy formed by the trees shut out the sunlight and allowed the passage of streaks of sunlight that formed an eerie image on the black stretch of forest road. This was a journey I was getting to love. It was a journey of the senses that had been screaming for help over the past year, wanting an out from the staid existence back home in Calcutta. The forest, the streams and the distant hills beyond, beckoned me. And sitting in the bus I allowed myself to zoom through a corridor of strained light right into the lap of nature at the other end. It was a meeting of lovers kept apart by circumstances. One, a confused youth from the city and the other a demure lass full of beauty and wisdom.
I needed this break as much as my friends. Calcutta had taken its toll. Sipping our tea in a roadside stall, we had decided to pack our rucksacks and head South. Over the last ten days the five of us had journeyed through the confusion in Chennai (then Madras), rode piggy back on my brother in law in Bangalore (till he wanted an out too), almost got crushed to death in a stampede on the parapet walls of the dam in Brindavan gardens and found relief in the green hills of Madikere in Coorg. Fresh out of college, no job in hand and a future as dark as the forest we were passing through, the five of us had decided to stray far away from our homes in Calcutta.
The girl seated across the aisle turned and smiled at me. I smiled back. She clung on to her doll tightly. I clung on to my dreams and watched the jungle pass me by. We were passing through the Bandipur National Park on our way to Ooty. The bus rumbled through the dense jungle. The others were sleeping. Amit with his head weaving over the aisle like a pendulum; Sanjay waking up sheepishly after every bump on the window sill; Bumba resting most of his 80 kilos on the thin old man seated next to him crushing him under his weight; Ashis snoring by my side. All presenting a picture of tired minds and bodies in need of rest. But I stayed awake with Denver for company. Sleep doesn’t come to me easily on such journeys. My mind wanders.
The sight of a large herd of elephants brought out squeals of delight from the little girl. The commotion woke the others up. The giant beasts were tied in chains next to the road. Bells dangled from their colossal neck and chimed with their movements. There was a gap in the thick foliage. A lovely clearing with some huts on the other side of a small stream held our attention. Then the bus roared around a sharp bend. Both the elephants and the clearing vanished from sight. It always saddens me to see elephants in chains. Somehow, I always think of these majestic animals roaming the jungles freely without care. Not sheathed in chains as beasts of burden..
..And then the climb up the Blue mountains began. We turned and twisted up the ghat roads. The scenery took our breath away. By now the others were wide-awake soaking in the splendour of the blue ridges of the Nilgiris. The setting sun created magic on these mountains and the ranges seemed to blush in delight at we watched her unabashedly allowing our minds to wander all over her beauty, wanting her like a long lost lover. Each turn showed us a different dimension of nature – every scene casting a spell on us, vibrating within us till our minds seemed to burst. Looking at our happy faces I realised that this was the closest I would come to feel Utopia on this trip.
Over the next five days we explored the town of Ooty. The quaint market place bustling with the post Diwali holiday crowd, the numbing cold of the evenings spent at the Botanical gardens and the boating on the lake; the excursion to Coonoor and our delight at seeing the botanical gardens at Sims Park with its wide variety of roses. We visited Dodabeta peak and marvelled at the breathtaking views from the place. But most of all, I still remember the wonderful after dinner sessions of animated conversation in the dormitory beds of the Youth Hostel; the carefree laughter of five disillusioned youths from Calcutta who found temporary Nirvana in the Blue Mountains of the South. And still the haunting strains of Denver kept me company in the cold, moonlit nights after the lights in the dormitory were switched off .
..dark and dusty painted on the sky, misty taste of moonshine, teardrop in my eye..
Copyright 2000, Wanderers Leisure Travels Pvt Ltd, Mumbai.
Facts on Ooty:
New name: Udhagamandalam. Also called ‘Queen of the Hill stations’.
Best season: January to March due to less rush. Otherwise, coinciding with the holidays, April-June and Sep-Oct are good too. November-Feb can get quite cold. It rains from June to Sept and greenery is at its best with a plethora of waterfalls all over.
How to reach: By road it is 165 kms approx from Mysore. By train one can take the quaint Nilgiri Blue Mountain railway from Mettupalayam in the plains to Ooty (46kms via Coonoor).
What to see: Botanical gardens, St Stephens Church, Government Museum, Fernhill Palace, Dodabetta peak. A day excursion to Coonoor and the magnificent Sims Park.
Moving on, one can visit the Mudumalai wildlife sanctuary and Bandipur National Park en route to Mysore.
A good route: Bangalore-Mysore-Madikere (Coorg)-Bandipur-Ooty-Vythri-Calicut. Can be done in 10-12 days.
If variety is the spice of life then India surely must rank as one of the most exotic and rare concoctions ever devised by God. In the cultural and historical cauldron that makes India so special, there is unity in diversity – a saying that every child must learn at the history classes in school and one that he will swear by for the rest of his life. During your travels in India, at every step you will be faced by this diversity – in the people, the geography, history, the architecture, the language and the lifestyles of the people.
It is a land that is steeped in history; where every stone has witnessed the passage of time and has a story to tell- of 33,00,00,000 Gods and Goddesses prancing in their playgrounds, of Kings and Queens, brave warriors, faithful stallions, courage and treachery and noble deeds; of freedom fighters and Godmen, sages and saints, preachers and poets – the list is endless.
It is a land whose parentage can be traced back to more than 3500 years. And since then various dynasties and Kingdoms have shaped its turbulent and checkered history down the ages. It is all still evident in the ruins, monuments, forts, battlefields and palaces that still reverberate with the sound of battle and distant war cries.
Geographically, India has everything that a visitor may seek. From the remote high altitude regions of the high Himalayas to the mesmeric coast that overlooks two seas and an ocean, from the fertile plains of the Gangetic belt to the arid desert in Rajasthan, India has everything. Crisscrossing the length and breadth of the country are rivers, most of which are associated with the many Gods that Indians worship today – the most venerable being the Ganges and the Yamuna. The other great rivers that flow from the Himalayas are the Indus, the five sisters of Punjab- Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi, Sutlej and Beas – the river Teesta that tumbles down Sikkim and the mighty Brahmaputra that flows through the North East bringing both wealth as well as destruction in its wake. In the plains, the other great rivers are the Narmada that originates in Madhya Pradesh, the Cauvery in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka and the Mahanadi in Orissa to name a few.
The mesmerising beauty of the Himalayas has over the years attracted sages, explorers and adventurers alike. It is here that the Gods resided and till date this region is associated deeply with religion. The peaks and the passes continue to draw the mountaineer in search of the final climb that will give them ‘moksha’ or liberty. The pilgrims come here each year in search of peace and enlightenment. Exotic and challenging trails draw thousands of trekkers to the Himalayas that swing like a necklace from Kashmir in the West to Arunachal Pradesh in the East. The rivers attract the rafters and kayakers who wish to tame the deadly rapids. Undoubtedly, the Himalayan range is nature’s biggest gift to India. It has a vast coastline and pristine and little known beaches dot the coast. Goan beaches rake in the tourist moolah each year in the beach category alongwith Varkala and Kovalam in Kerala.
The harsh and fascinating desert regions of Rajasthan continue to be one of India’s biggest attractions. Fairy tale fortresses, richly adorned palaces and havelis and eternal love stories of beautiful princesses and brave Kings draw tourists by the thousand every year. There are jungles that reverberate with the roar of the tiger and the lion and no two of them are similar. From Corbett in the North to Periyar in the South, from Gir Forest in Gujarat to Namdhapa in Arunachal Pradesh each of them is distinct climatically, geographically and in the rich diversity of the flora and fauna.
The people of India are diverse and fascinating too. From the Gujjars in the Himalayas who rear their sheep and cattle in the bugyals (high altitude meadows) to the Adi tribe in Arunachal Pradesh, from the santhals of Bengal and Bihar to the fishermen of the Konkan coast, from the friendly Kinnauris of Himachal Pradesh to the fierce and primitive Jarawas of Andaman, each of them is unique. There are sub castes within each caste and inspite of intercaste problems, nowhere is unity in diversity more apparent than in India. The different strains of religions range from Hinduism, Islam, Christianity to Sikhism, Judaism and Zoroastrianism.
Temples, Churches, mosques can be found everywhere and as you roam the length and breadth of the country, you will be amazed to see that a temple in the North is so different from a temple in the South; that the Dilwara temple in Mt Abu has spectacular carvings and yet is so different from the masterpieces of Khajuraho or the Sun temple at Konarak. The Golden Temple of the Sikhs at Amritsar is beautiful yet different from the lovely Rumtek Monastery of the Buddhists in Sikkim or Sanchi Stupa in Madhya Pradesh.
Great minds from Gautama Buddha to Vivekananda have influenced the cultural and religious unity of India. Great leaders from Chattrapati Shivaji to Mahatma Gandhi have struggled for Independence and fought in their own ways against colonial tyranny. During your travels you will step on their footprints and follow their tracks. At each turn you will face at least a hundred years of history. You may hate India and despise the filth, poverty and oppressive red tape that will leave you frustrated but once you have experienced India, it is unlikely that you will remain unchanged.
Copyright 2000, Wanderers Leisure Travels Pvt Ltd,Mumbai
We were at the ancient looking petrol pump in Wangdiphodrang town. Jigme, my friend and guide on the trip had gone to replenish his stock of Wills filters. I entered the ‘Black-necked Crane’ restaurant and ordered chicken ‘momos’ (kind of dumplings generally stuffed with pork) for breakfast. 10 minutes later I returned to the spotlessly clean main square.
The town, simply called ‘Wangdi’ (pronounced wongdi), is at an altitude of 4,430 ft and about 71 kms from Thimphu. I had spent the previous night at Punakha in a nondescript motel opposite the impressive Punakha Dzong on the confluence of the Mo Chu and Pho Chu rivers. The rivers met to form the picturesque Puna Tsang Chu River. In the morning, Jigme had collected me in a green Toyota pickup and we followed the river for about 45 minutes to reach Wangdi for fuel. It was 8.30 am on a crisp early November morning. There was not a speck of cloud in the sky. In the far horizon the dome shaped white peak of Mt. Jhomolhari was visible. Our destination was Bumthang in Central Bhutan, 200 kms away.
The central road over the Black Mountains…
” We are now entering wilderness country”, Jigme said soon after we left Wangdi. “There are no shops to buy anything till we reach Trongsa, 130 kms away.” I didn’t need anything as I had stocked my rucksack with all I would need for such an eventuality. The apples would serve me well till Trongsa and beyond.
The road snaked through the mountains as it followed the Dang Chu river which met the Puna Tsang Chu river at Wangdi just below the Dzong. A few kms from Wangdi, Jigme pointed out a prison in the valley below, flanking the river. It seemed out of place in such a serene and scenic location. The road climbed up steeply after the bridge at Tikke as we entered the Black Mountains. It is easy to understand why these mountains are thus called as one looks at the dark rock faces of the range in the distance. The area is sparsely inhabited and I could see farmhouses perched precariously on cliffs and hill tops. The jungles around here are dense and teeming with wild boar and Himalayan Black Bear. Only the previous week, ‘Kuensel’, the weekly newspaper had reported that a farmer was badly mauled by a bear near Nobding, a small village we crossed soon after. 7 kms beyond Nobding a road branched to the right. This road goes through a forest to Phobjika Valley at 9,840ft, 13 kms away, where Gangtey Monastery is located. Phobjika is the home of the rare black necked crane, which migrates from the Central Asiatic plateau to escape the harsh winters.
We continued down the road to Trongsa. Soon after this bifurcation the climb to Pele La Pass, 14 kms away, began. Near the Pass, on the right I could see the snow clad peaks of the Himalayan Range with Mt.Jhomolhari at 23,685 ft clearly visible. Only a few days ago I had seen the dome shaped peak as the backdrop to the ruins of Drukyel Dzong in Paro. This Pass at 10,825 ft is marked by a large prayer flag. The hillside around is covered with high altitude dwarf bamboo, a favourite food of yaks. If you are lucky, you can spot the yak herders who come down with their herd to the Pass for the winters.
Two huge bull-yaks were grunting and fighting fiercely on a slope beside the road as they locked horns. Jigme and our driver warned me not to go too close as I photographed them enthusiastically. The other yaks were fidgeting nervously as the two bulls tore the ground apart. I inched closer. Suddenly, there was a lull in the fighting and one bull yak just looked at me. Some wise man once said ‘adversity introduces a man to himself’. I turned and ran down the slope, past a bewildered Jigme, to the pickup!
On the other side of the Pass, the slopes were full of yaks feasting on the bamboo shoots. The young calves pranced nervously around their mothers. Even in Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim, I had not seen so many yaks in one place. This Pass marks the boundary between Central and Eastern Bhutan.
We descended rapidly and after Nikkarchu the road entered Trongsa district. We soon came across the huge white washed Chendebji Chorten next to the river. We halted here for packed lunch. Taking my camera, I walked down to the gurgling river. This is a fantastic place to spend a few quiet hours. There was not a soul in sight and the beauty of the place was overwhelming. I sat on a rock beside the river, munching my apples and watching a bird flirting with the water. This 18th century Chorten is Nepalese in style with eyes painted at the four cardinal points.
From Chendebji to Trongsa, the distance is 42 kms. The valley narrowed and the Mangde Chu river became a silver streak flowing hundreds of feet below the road. Jigme puffed his cigarette and announced, “For the next 20-25 kms, this gorge will remain deep and narrow. Vehicles that have fallen here have tumbled straight down to the valley floor below as it’s a sheer drop and there is nothing to stop the fall.” Seeing my nervousness, he said reassuringly, “Don’t worry, I’m sure one never feels a thing.” He also enlightened me that the Trongsa region is infested with snakes during the monsoons!
20 kms from Trongsa, we got our first enchanting view of the Trongsa Dzong clinging desperately to the cliff side across the gorge. The small township of Trongsa is scattered along the slopes. It took us an hour more to reach Trongsa. Bumthang was 68 kms away. It was 2 p.m. After an hour’s halt, we proceeded ahead.
Onwards to Bumthang.
The road went between the Dzong and the Ta Dzong (or the watchtower) and climbed sharply again. 29 kms from Trongsa, we reached Yotong La Pass (Yotola) at 11,155 ft. There was a sharp drop in temperature and we halted briefly to refresh ourselves. Then began the descent to Chumey Valley, the first of Bumthang’s four valleys- Chumey, Choekhor, Tang and Ura.
I had heard about the exotic valley of Bumthang and it’s early November festival from the locals when I first stepped into Bhutan after holidaying for 10 days in Sikkim. I had heard that it is an enchanting place not frequented by Indians because of it’s remoteness. So, when Jigme and his colleagues processed my papers and arranged for my trip to Bumthang in a pickup van that was carrying luggage for some foreign tourists, the last doubts related to lack of finance began dissipating. Finally, the wandering bug in me took over and I decided to venture into a region where few Indian tourists go…
The road went through a wide and immensely beautiful valley. The farmers were returning from their day’s work and laughed and waved at us. An enchanting stream escorted us for a few kms till we reached Jakar, the main township in Bumthang and the seat of administration.
Because of the four-day festival at Jampa Lhakhang, foreigners occupied all the few good lodges in the valley. I didn’t see a single Indian tourist in Bumthang during my stay there. I checked into a room above a provision store paying 110 Ngultrums a night (equivalent to the Indian rupee). It was the only motel in town and my home for the next three nights as I discovered paradise on earth. That night in sub-zero temperatures, I slept in a room that was damp and cold and dug deep into my sleeping bag for warmth. Bumthang valley, like Paro valley, is an enchanting valley that is sparsely populated, with the shallow, emerald green Bumthang river going right through it.
I began walking the next morning at 9 a.m. after the fog cleared. Jakar town comprises of 25 wooden lodges on either side of the main street. Like everywhere else in Bhutan, the only vehicles around were the ubiquitousToyota. Within 5minutes, I was at the edge of town and walking along the riverside. Soon I came across a mechanical workshop and asked for directions to a shop selling the famous Bumthang cheese and apple juice. After gorging myself on the delicious cheese and gulping down 2 bottles of apple juice, I was told by the friendly landlady to check out the experimental Swiss farm atop Karsumpey Plateau, 20 minutes walk up from the shop.
I climbed up the gently sloping road towards the plateau and saw an awesome sight. Grazing in a lovely sun swept meadow were 23 sturdy Swiss horses which, I learnt later, were brought from Switzerland for crossbreeding with the local Tibetan breeds. I continued down the road and came across the farmhouse, and walked through an apple orchard. It was then that I first heard the overpowering melody of someone playing on the Dranyen, a 7-stringed instrument shaped like the mandolin.
He sat on a rock at the edge of the plateau overlooking the fabulous Bumthang Valley and hummed away. His two small children were laughing and playing with him. For the next two hours, I lay on the ground beside him as he played his Dranyen. I hungrily devoured the magnificent sight before me and carved every minute detail of the valley in my mind. Over the next three days, I would walk alone in this valley, discovering monasteries and chortens, eating cheese and sleeping on a meadow beside the river. I would attend the opening ceremony of the 4-day festival at Jampa Lhakhang at midnight in sub-zero temperatures and watch the naked dance, visit the Jakar Dzong, the Kurjey Lhakhang, drink apple brandy, flirt with the landlady’s pretty daughter Kuengzang and play with the local children. I would see the processing of beer and cheese in a local factory, lunch with the remarkable Fritz Maurer, the old Swiss dairy technologist who had made Bhutan his home over the last 29 years.
But, for now I was content lying in an apple orchard, many miles from home, listening to a father singing Bhutanese folk songs for his children…
Urmimala Banerjee of The Wanderers travelled to Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh in Feb, 2007 and came back mesmerized and wiser..here is her story
“I am the only person who can show you the tiger”, said Atul. He was a confident man. It was barely two hours, since we had checked into the Pench Jungle Camp. The 6 kilometers drive from Khawasa to Avarghani Village had been back breaking. The kaccha road was bumpy and threw up dirt at every two minutes. It was a dry area with barren Sal trees and few villagers were working on the main road.
However, the resort was a complete contrast. We parked our Ambassador and proceeded towards the reception. The lawns were impeccable with flowers planted in neat rows. Butterflies fluttered about in gay abandon. A French family was waiting to check in, while the waiters stood in attention.
The drive from Nagpur had been good. En route we had stopped at the Dragon Palace at Kamptee. Built with Japanese aid, it was a big complex with a large prayer hall. We were the first visitors of the day. After a 15 min stop, we drove further. As we entered into the countryside we saw huge sunflower fields and villages homes painted white and blue. A considerable area came under the Forest Department and we could see rows of teak trees. This belt started in Maharashtra, while Khawasa came in the Seoni District of Madhya Pradesh.
After a round of hotel inspection, we were in the common dining area. And it was during a sumptuous lunch that we heard Atul speak about tiger sightings. He was telling the foreign guests that he was one of the few people who could guarantee a tiger/leopard on a safari. “That’s really great! I exclaimed, trying to be genuine. Before embarking on this trip, we were clearly told that spotting a tiger isn’t easy. It is by far the most elusive of wild animals in India.
The safari was at 2 pm. The foreigners rushed to their tents to get their cameras while we waited at the lawns. Atul and his colleague joined the foreigners while we were accompanied by a forest ranger. We were slightly miffed that none of the in-house naturalists accompanied us. Somehow, they seemed more pre-occupied with their foreign clients. We reached the gate of the National Park, where the board read “Indira Priyadarshini Pench National Park’. The park also includes the Mowgli Pench Sanctuary and a buffer. Young boys, picnickers, tourists and officials had formed quite a crowd. Our resort’s staff members did the entry formalities. We hadn’t expected this much noise, as this wasn’t a very popular national park (Atleast we thought so!).
We entered into the park. This was my first visit to a tiger reserve. The forest was dense and the chattering of langurs filled the air. We became alert and started looking around right from the word go! From a green-forested area, we moved slowly to a rougher terrain. The right side was an uneven plateau with dry Sal trees, while the left side was much greener. Our heads turned right and left in a continuous motion. A moment’s lapse and we could lose out on a sighting. My alertness levels had reached a new height. Few birds were chirping noisily. I simply ignored them and looked around for an animal. They were a flock of Jungle Babblers.
Finally, our guide pointed at a Collared Scops Owl sitting in a tree trunk. It was wonderfully camouflaged in shades of brown. Finally, we saw two beady eyes peering at us. It was hardly ten minutes and we could feel the excitement building up. The area had trees like Teak, Sal, Gagri, Dhira, Saja, Bija and Mahua trees. We then encountered a large male Chital (Indian Spotted Deer) lazily chewing the leaves off a tree. He was gorgeous with his big antlers covered in velvet. This beautiful animal is widely found in Northern and Central India. Another one was relaxing, a few meters away from him. But we couldn’t see it properly.
As we moved ahead, we saw more of them. They were walking leisurely chewing the tender leaves that had fallen on the ground. The guide explained that the Langurs dropped them from the treetops for the deer. All along the trip we could hear the langurs swinging from tree to tree. “The langur and Chital are best of friends. Everywhere you find a deer, you’ll find a langur,” said our guide. “Langurs warn the deer of the approaching danger,” he added.
A mention must be made of the ‘Sadhu Monkeys’ i.e. Common Langurs striking the most sagacious poses. Their perfectly crossed legs made for great meditative postures. We saw many of them throughout the safari, lost in introspection.
Pench is not particularly grassy, especially in summers. Now, we were driving towards the watering hole. This was a low lying area with dry grass. A lone Nilgai was grazing out here.
Seeing us, the shy animal fled. The Blue Bull or Nilgai is found only in India, mostly in lowlands and plains.
Moving ahead, we crossed a small path with a dry river bed below it. A Gaur (Indian Bison) was walking over it. He went a little further whereby we couldn’t see him clearly. Though we knew that the chance of spotting a tiger at Pench was low, we kept on asking. Somehow, the thought of spotting a tiger was always at the back of our minds.
Driving along the riverside we saw herds of deer, males and females with cubs in tow. A beautiful Indian Roller made a brief appearance, sitting for 2 minutes on a stone. We saw two Gaurs (Indian Bison) drinking from the waterhole. As we moved ahead, we saw a whole herd of them. The oldies kept to themselves while the younger ones drank in groups. We drove very close to a young male that was standing alone. After a few minutes when he seemed to get irritated, we moved away.
Pench has a rugged landscape of small hills and uneven plateaus. It was quite a roller-coaster ride driving up and down the forest routes. I got up from my seat to get a better view of the landscape. The deciduous trees were shedding their leaves and the whole park was carpeted with them. A family of wild boars was walking up the plateau. The guide told us that they are known to charge with or without any provocation.
It was almost 5 pm. We came near the banks of the river Pench and rested awhile. This area is known as Sitaghat and is a birder’s paradise. Species like egret, stork, cormorant and kingfishers could be easily spotted. Our British friends seemed particularly delighted. This was their second visit to India and they were on the ‘Tiger Trail’. We left our friends and moved ahead.
The sun was slowly setting in. We drove ahead and saw a couple of jeeps at a stop. The other guide said that they had heard the call of Sambhar Deer. This call is the most important signal for rangers and tourists that a predator is nearby. I stood up on my seat and looked at my left. A herd of deer was resting near some boulders. I saw them getting up slowly and moving away. More vehicles started congregating near us. Our 15-min wait was futile. The guide told us that most probably it was a leopard.
We now reached a different part of the forest. This was a mixed forest with bamboo thickets and dense undergrowth. The branches of the Indian Ghost Tree seemed to shine in the twilight. We spotted a creature behind a bush. It was a female Sāmbhar Deer. On spotting us, she retreated back into the bushes. As we moved further, we saw a mother and her cub. They were ambling along the road. We gave way for the pair to cross to the other side. A little later, we saw a lovely fully-grown female Sāmbhar Deer.
Besides the animals, we saw a lot of birds. Peacock and peahen were in large numbers throughout the forest. A long tailed bird flew over our heads. It was the Racket-tailed Drongo; a rare bird.
We left the park in the next ten minutes. On reaching the camp, we were refreshed with tea and biscuits. As we sat before the bonfire late evening exchanging stories, we learnt more about the forest. The other foreign guests had a deep love and passion for wildlife. Different people from different walks of life all bound with a common love for Indian jungles. The starlit sky was simply gorgeous; we did a bit of stargazing. I don’t remember seeing a star lit sky in Mumbai for ages.
One of the waiters told us that the Chital as well as leopards wander into the resort grounds at night. We didn’t have a lock in our otherwise luxurious tent. At night, we heard a variety of calls and sounds. The forest never sleeps.
We did not venture out that night..
